Historic Ubud: Royal Legacies, Magic, and the Birth of Tourism
"Today the entire world is a museum available to those who have the desire to see. In this museum, Bali is one of the most impressive collections... and Ubud is the principal gem of the entire collection."
— C. McVicker, 1959; from the Puri Saren Agung Guestbook.
The story of Ubud’s royalty is a gripping tapestry of rebellion, spiritual power, and a deep-seated love for the arts. While the sacred foundations were laid by Rsi Markandeya, it was the 17th-century shifts in the Gelgel capital that birthed the royal houses we recognize today.
The Ayung River: A lifeline of beauty winding toward the Sayan ridges.
The Rise of Sukawati and the Peliatan Dynasty
In the early 1700s, the King of Klungkung sent his son, Dewa Agung Anom Wijayasunu, to Sukawati to establish a center of power. He brought with him an entourage of the finest artists and artisans. Once the palace was completed, ini creators chose to stay, planting the seeds for the region's artistic explosion.
By the late 1700s, power shifted further north. Rivalries between administrators led to the establishment of palaces in Peliatan and Ubud. Legend tells of Tjokorde Putu Kandel, who stepped onto a battlefield brandishing the magical keris (dagger) Ki Betara Batukaru. It is said that the mere sight of the weapon caused thousands of enemy troops to flee in the year 1800.
The Golden Age of Prosperity
Between 1850 and 1917, Ubud truly began to flourish under the reigns of Tjokorde Rai Batur and the pious Tjokorde Gede Sukawati. This was an era of booming agriculture and spiritual devotion. Tjokorde Gede Sukawati possessed a mystical power known as bau siu, which made enemies perceive his small army as a force of thousands.
In Bali, magic is a respected part of the daily rhythm.
1930s: The Dawn of Modern Tourism
The Ubud we know today as a global art hub was shaped in the 1930s. The visionary Tjokorde Gede Agung Sukawati was the primary architect of this transformation. Having taught himself English and Dutch as a young guide, he established a small guest house in the Puri Saren Agung.
In 1927, the legendary artist Walter Spies was invited to live in Ubud. Alongside painters like Rudolf Bonnet, they hosted global celebrities including Charlie Chaplin and H.G. Wells. Every visitor was treated like family, a hallmark of Ubud’s hospitality.
Rangda: The face of the unseen world and guardian of Ubud.
The Power of the Unseen
Even today, Ubudians live in harmony with the Niskala (unseen world). From the sacred tree in Pura Batukura that sprouts "Chinese coins" to the mysterious tales of the Celuluk mask that lurks in front of the Puri at midnight—these stories are the heartbeat of Ubud.
Read: The Village of Tenganan in Bali
Ubud's rich artistic tradition is a tribute to the spiritual energy of Campuhan. As Rsi Markandeya discovered centuries ago: Ubud is not just a place; it is a mood.
Experience History with a Local Guide
Journey through the sacred villages and royal history of Bali with an expert perspective.
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